Is This Antique Gold Chain French or Italian? A step-by-step identification
This antique gold watch chain is our current obsession. It is long, beautifully made and has a clasped gloved hand holding a half-hoop (stirrup) attached to a watch clip. It has just landed and is available at Sugar et Cie.
Every time I see a high-carat, antique gold chain with a clasped hand and watch clip, I make every attempt to snatch it up…if it meets all of our requirements!
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I know so many of you are like me regarding the clasped hand. I covet them and cannot get enough. I love the French or Italian versions from the 19th c. and the English version from the Regency and Georgian periods. In our previous blog, I wrote about a new book on French Hallmarks: French Precious Metal Hallmarks by Michael Fieggen.
I recently took this new reference book out for a spin and used it to identify the hallmarks on this really stunning example of an antique gold watch that has all of the bells and whistles:
- 55 inches of gold chain so that it can be worn in multiple lengths.
- A gold slide that allows you to change the length of the drop.
- The coveted clasped hand.
- A watch clip that allows you to easily attach a pendant.
- All original in rich 18K yellow gold.
So was this antique gold chain made in France or Italy? Any guesses?
I thought you might enjoy a step-by-step walk through using the book to identify the gold hallmark found marked on the chain.
So the first step is always: examine your piece and look for hallmarks or maker’s marks. I personally use two tools for this, my loupe and my DSLR camera with a macro lens. Sometimes I can see it better by studying the image captured by the camera than with the loupe. See the hallmark below:
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So fortunately I can see enough detail to identify that it is an eagle head. My first stop is to the Index of hallmarks on Page 184 to look up the eagle.
© Copyright Michael C.W. Fieggen
The author has a brilliantly detailed Index of Hallmarks which makes it easy to use in order to identify your hallmark. I am looking for an Eagle that is left facing. In the index, I see two references listed: Page 30 and Page 58 for Eagle, to the left.
YES!
I turn to Page 30, and no, this is not a match. The time frame is plausible, but the eagle’s beak is not quite as open, and there is no bordered frame, so no this is NOT a match for my mark.
© Copyright Micheal C.W. Fieggen
Next stop…Page 58. SUCCESS!
Not only is the hallmark a match, but the other pieces of the puzzle seem to fit as well.
© Copyright Micheal C.W. Fieggen
Image 152 on the bottom left of the page is a match. It's the hallmark for Turin.
But wait... this eagle isn’t French, Turin is in Italy! From 1802-1814, the French (Napoleon Bonaparte) occupied Turin, along with most of Northern and Central Italy. (Source: Wikipedia: Turin)
Turin has long been a center of culture and Jewelry production. Cartier’s production of Jewelry has been located in Turin since 2013 and indirectly for decades prior to that via its partner Marchisio, who was established in Turin in 1860. (Source WWD February 3, 2023: Exclusive: Cartier unveils 'Cleanest So Far' Jewelry Plant in Turin)
I have a brief history of the Assay office located in Turin thanks to the author of the book, who spent a considerable amount of time in the French archives doing primary research.
© Copyright Micheal C.W. Fieggen
History of the Hallmark Office in Turin
The Turin Assay office was opened in 1803 by the French and was part of the French system until 1814. It continued on (although not as part of the French system) and used marks not shown in the book. From 1824 until 1872, the hallmark stamped into this chain and shown on page 58 was used by the office.
If your interested in purchasing this antique gold chain or perusing our other fine modern, vintage, and antique jewelry visit us at Sugar et Cie.