Antique & Modern: Enamel Flower Ring with European Cut Diamond, "Wild Violet"

Some pieces of antique jewelry are meant to be worn, as is, untouched. And some are just begging to be re-imagined! From the Art Nouveau period (circa 1910) this wild violet (enamel over 14 Kt gold) sits on top of a modern 14 Kt gold band.

Unlike the Victorians, we are a bit less likely to pin flowers to our dresses or in our hair, so we have carefully converted this brooch (see pictures in its original form) to a ring. The enamel has a matte finish and ranges in color from a pastel lavender to a more saturated purple with touches of white and vivid green. The sparkle at the center is a European cut diamond.

• The violet is enamel over 14 Kt gold. The band is also 14 Kt gold. The diamond in the center of the flower is a European cut and is approximately .1 carats.
• The flower is approximately 27 mm or a little over an inch in diameter by 20 mm. The band is 3 mm in width and has a depth of 1.9 mm and weighs 3.69 grams. The ring size is U.S. 5. It can be sized. Please note that while the enamel on this flower has lasted over 100 years, but some care must be taken. If the ring is knocked against another surface the enamel could be damaged.

• U.S.

• Violet: Art Nouveau, circa 1910.
• Violet and gold band: stamped 14 K and 14 Kt.

• The violet and its enamel surface are in very good antique condition. The gold band is new.

About Antique Enameled Flower Jewelry

Enamored with the language of flowers, Victorians and Edwardians found numerous ways to incorporate florals into their jewelry. Enamel pansies ("thinking about you"), violets ("loyal love") and orchids ("beauty") in the form of brooches, pendants, and rings were popular and came in a variety of colors and hues from pastels to vivid jewel-tones.

Jewelers known to have made these enameled flower brooches include firms such as Cartier, Krementz, Whiteside & Bank, among others. As with anything popular, the quality of these pieces vary. We first look for period, Victorian and Edwardian (the Art Nouveau style spanned both). We also look for candy-colored flowers with a matte finish, realistic forms, high-quality artwork, and that are set with diamonds or pearls.

About Art Nouveau

The Art Nouveau style, famous for its flowing lines, curved surface and use of nature themes, developed towards the end of the 19th century during the Victorian period. It lasted about thirty years and started to fade away just after the end of the Edwardian period. The influence of Art Nouveau can be seen everywhere, not just in jewelry, but also in fine art, decorative art, and architecture.

Perhaps one of the most recognized symbols of this style are the entrances to the some of Paris's Metropolitan stations. They were designed by Hector Guimard, a well-known innovator of the Art Nouveau style in the field of architecture. They were constructed between 1900-12. In classic Art Nouveau style, the lettering, the lamp posts, the enclosures, all had an organic look and feel suggesting tangled vines and blossoming flowers.

If you are interested in reading more about the jewelry terms or decorative periods referenced throughout our site, visit our Resources section for additional information.

Find out how to care for your collection of antique and modern jewels: visit our Jewelry Care page to get advice on maintaining and storing your treasured pieces.

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