Antique: Large Enamel Pansy Brooch in Gold with Diamonds

This is a stunning and unique jewel: a large black pansy brooch in enamel over gold, studded with diamonds. At the center of the flower is a sparkling European cut diamond, a sizeable 1/4 carat. The edges are sprinkled with diamonds, which gives the illusion that the pansy has droplets of dew clinging to its petals.

Most antique pansy brooches fall in the 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size range. This pansy is 1 1/2 inches in diameter. The fact that it is rose gold rather than the more typical yellow gold, also makes it unique. It has a nice solid feel in the palm of the hand.

• The overall brooch measures approximately 1 1/2 inches tall by 1 1/3 inches wide.
• The brooch is enamel over 14 Kt gold.
• The center diamond is an old European cut diamond, which weighs 1/4 carat. Additionally, there are 19 rose cut diamonds. Due to their size, it is difficult to accurately measure their carat weight in place.

• Germany.

• Art Nouveau, possibly a little later circa 1910/20.
• Marked 575 (for 14 Kt).

• The brooch is in very good antique condition. The enamel is an even and deep matte black. Any variance in the color in the images is due to lighting.
• There is very minimal wear to the enamel and one fine scratch in the top left which is not eye visible (e.g. visible only through magnification).

Enamored with the language of flowers, Victorians and Edwardians found numerous ways to incorporate flowers into their jewelry. Enamel pansies ("thinking about you"), violets ("loyal love"), and orchids ("beauty"), in the form of brooches, pendants, and rings became popular during the late 19th c. Their popularity continued as the Art Nouveau movement took hold, fitting in well with the movement's focus on nature and its organic, flowing lines.

These enameled flower jewels were made in England, France, the U.S. and Germany for the most part. Makers included: Cartier, Krementz, Whiteside & Bank, Hedges & Co., among others. During the Art Nouveau period many of the enameled flower brooches were made in the U.S.

As with anything popular, the quality of these pieces vary. We are quite particular about the ones we add to our collection.

We first look for period. We like the ones that were made during Victorian or Edwardian (the Art Nouveau style spanned both). Our focus is circa1880-1930. We also look at the color. We prefer a matte finish in candy color pastels, rich hued jewel tones, or black or white. Realistic form and the quality of the artwork are also very important. Lastly we like ones made in gold or platinum, and if jeweled, set with precious gems such as diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, or pearls.

If you are interested in reading more about the jewelry terms or decorative periods referenced throughout our site, visit our Resources section for additional information.

Find out how to care for your collection of antique and modern jewels: visit our Jewelry Care page to get advice on maintaining and storing your treasured pieces.

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