Antique: Gold Watch Chain Necklace with Hand Clasp in 18k

Antique Gold Chain, 19th c., 18K Yellow-Gold, 55"

This stunning gold chain is one of those pieces that only come around once in a while. Where to start? The gloved hand clasp of course!

Usually on the "Must Have" list for those who covet wearable, one-of-a-kind antique statement pieces, the cuff on the glove is elaborate and beautiful. Possibly better yet, is the fact that is grasping a floral stirrup.

In the 19th c., a woman would have worn this around her neck and most likely attached a watch chain to the watch clip. All in a rich yellow 18 Kt gold, the chain is long and sleek in a gold beaded pattern that I have never seen before. Clearly hand made!

Finely Made Details:

• A beautifully crafted long chain of 55 inches. 
• The slider: The slider slides up and down allowing you to alter the length of the chain and the drop. Also referred to as a "Saliscendi" necklace.
• The gloved clasped hand: A most coveted design feature. 
• The watch clip: Attached to the stirrup is the watch clip. The Italian and French versions open differently than the English or American push-in version. The screw or dial gets turned until it reaches the top then gently pull on the the knob on the side. A portion of the threaded screw opens as well as the clip (see images). Due to its age, it is a bit delicate and needs to be opened with care. It is designed as a safety closure so once its closed, it is secure.

How to Wear This Antique Long Chain

The beauty of the design is in how many ways you can wear it: doubled, tripled, choker length or long lengths. It is a statement on its own but also layers well with other chains.  

Dimensions & Details

• 18K yellow-gold.
• Length: 55 inches or 140cm.
• Weight: 27.07 grams.

• Italy and purchased in Italy.

• Hallmarked with Eagle, facing left for 18k, Turin Italy.
• Dates to 19th c. 1824-1872.
• XRF and acid tested as well: 18k. 

• The chain is in very good antique condition with some wear and patina that you would expect to see from age. The watch clip opens by turning the notched disc along the screw thread until it reaches the top. You then used the small bead/lever to open the clip. It still works perfectly, but is delicate and our advice is to open and close gently and infrequently. It is meant to only open wide enough to slip a bail in, do not pull it all the way open.

A note on the Hallmark and Design

From 1803-1824, Turin along with much of Northern Italy was occupied by France (Napoleon). Eight assay offices, including Turin, were established. After the fall of Napoleon, the hallmarking offices were maintained, but the system changed. It changed again in 1824 and the eagle facing left for Turin was introduced and remained in use from 1824-1872. Source: 1 - French Precious Metal Hallmarks from 1789 to Date,  2- Silvercollecton.it/torinohallmarks.html. 

Turin, due to is geography and its French occupation, is known as the most French city in Italy. Many French influences can be seen in its architecture and culture. Jewelry was no exception. This chain is similar to other chains made in France during this period. 

If you are interested in reading more about the jewelry terms or decorative periods referenced throughout our site, visit our Resources section for additional information.

Find out how to care for your collection of antique and modern jewels: visit our Jewelry Care page to get advice on maintaining and storing your treasured pieces.