Antique Gold Buckle Ring in 18ct Gold with Pale Blue Enamel and Diamonds

Antique Buckle Ring, Victorian Period, 18ct Yellow-Gold, Size 5

This most unusual buckle ring from the Victorian period is one of the prettiest we have ever seen. There is something about the combination of the pale blue turquoise enamel, the old rose cut diamonds, and the rich yellow of the high-carat, antique gold.

It is finely made with amazing detail that you would never find on a modern piece:

• the tiny beaded trim on the edge of the ring that runs all the way around;
• the minute buckle holes; and
• the graduated rose cut diamonds.

It looks quite delicate, but if you look top down at the ring you can see that it has a very nice depth, weighing it at 7.2 grams.

It would make a great right hand ring, pinky ring or because of the symbolism associated with the buckle motif, a lovely wedding band.

Dimensions & Details

• It is approximately US size 5 or UK J 1/2.
• The height of the front of the band measures 1/3 inch or 8.7mm (at it's widest point - the buckle).
• The height of the back of the band measures .18 inches or 4.8 mm.
• The ring weighs 7.2 grams.

• England and sourced in England.

• Victorian Period. Not hallmarked.
• Gold tests as 18ct via both acid and XRF technology.

• The ring is in very good antique condition with general wear and surface scratches that one would expect in a piece of this age. It is possible that the enamel could have been redone at some point, but there are no clear signs. 

Symbolism in Victorian Jewelry: The Buckle

The buckle motif has been popular throughout jewelry history, especially during the Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian periods. The design of the buckle and the details changing with style and time.

Victorian life was filled with symbolism and jewelry was no exception. A buckle symbolized fidelity in love, or loyalty in friendship, through the joining of the two pieces. When the buckle wraps around a finger, like the serpent or snake, it can be interpreted as a symbol of eternal love (an unending circle or bond).

Caring for Antique Enamel Jewelry

Enamel is basically ground glass that is heated or fired at a high enough temperature high enough to fuse it to the metal to which it is applied. Do not use anything physically or chemically abrasive to clean your antique enamel. It is best to use a damp, soft and untreated cloth to clean your enamel jewelry. Because this ring's diamonds are set in with a closed back, you may want to avoid soaking it in water. Immersing the ring in water could lead to moisture getting trapped behind the stones causing discoloration. 

If you are interested in reading more about the jewelry terms or decorative periods referenced throughout our site, visit our Resources section for additional information.

Find out how to care for your collection of antique and modern jewels: visit our Jewelry Care page to get advice on maintaining and storing your treasured pieces.